Do you struggle with dark spots? Dark spots are oh so common especially for darker, melanated skin tones. In skin of color, our pigment cells are larger and located differently compared to fair, white complexions. This causes people of color to be more prone to discoloration such as dark spots and scarring. But what causes dark spots?

Dark spots, also known as hyperpigmentation, are spots of extra melanin or overproduction of melanin. When our skin experiences any trauma, it can cause a dark spot. For example, if you experienced the trauma of getting hit by a fast-moving baseball, your skin may react by bruising. The same thing applies with our face. Your face can experience trauma such as acne, sun exposure, or wounds and can “bruise” leaving a dark spot that’s hard to get rid of. 

I experience dark spots due to post acne scars, so I use dark spot correctors quite frequently. To avoid dark spots, make sure to wear your sunscreen year around, don’t pop your pimples, and try your best to avoid any direct damage or wounds. 

For people of color, we must be a bit proactive and aggressive when experiencing any skin trauma like sun damage or acne since we are more prone to dark marks. There are so many products out there, but here are a few active ingredients to look for when shopping for a dark spot corrector and a couple of highly recommended correctors. All products can be found on my Amazon Store Skin Care List.     

Active Ingredients for Dark Spots 

Vitamin C

Vitamin C is a great natural alternative to dark spot correctors and is one of the most common ingredients in over the counter (OTC) correctors. It works by breaking up pigment and brightening the skin tone. I recently started using the Biossance Squalene + Vitamin C Dark Spot Serum, which contains vitamin C as one of its active ingredients. I was gifted this product from Influenster for reviewing purposes. Stay tune to my Instagram for a review on how this product is working for me in the coming weeks. 

Retinol 

Perhaps you’ve heard of retinols and retinoids. They are essentially the same thing; both are vitamin A (retinoic acid) derivatives. The main difference is that retinols contain a lower concentration of vitamin A and are found OTC. Retinoids have a higher concentration of vitamin A and often must be prescribed by a doctor. Either way, both vitamin A derivatives are great options because retinoids speed up cell turnover to remove the top layers of your skin. This breaks up and exfoliates pigments leaving you with lighter dark spots. It also has skin firming benefits and eliminates fine lines to help with aging. 

Hydroquinone 

Hydroquinone is essentially a bleaching cream and is safe to use in moderation. It works by inhibiting the pigment-forming enzyme tyrosinase and slowing the production of melanin, which allows dark marks to gradually fade to the normal skin tone. Most skin lightening prescription creams contain hydroquinone with about twice the amount you would find in an OTC hydroquinone cream. 

Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA)

Alpha hydroxy acids are acids derived from sugary fruits, vegetables, and other plant- and animal-based products. They exfoliate dead skin cells and help promote cell turnover to remove the top layers of the skin. This allows the top layers to peel away revealing a new, smoother, more evenly pigmented skin layer. Our skin naturally sheds layers of dead cells, but as we age, this shedding process slows down. Using a AHA can help speed this process along and improve your skin’s firmness, texture, and tone while diminishing fine lines and wrinkles. Some common AHAs you’ll find in your skin correctors are glycolic acid and lactic acid. I have personally had good results using the Murad Vita-C Glycolic Brightening Serum.

Niacinamide 

Niacinamide is an effective yet gentle pigment lightener. It is a vitamin B3 (niacin) derivative that slows pigment production and pigment transfer, which helps to reduce dark spots. It also reduces inflammation; bye bye redness! How? Niacinamide is a precursor to cofactors NAD+, NADH, and NADP+. These cofactors are needed for chemical reactions taking place in our skin cells to repair damage. Therefore, niacinamide can allow your skin cells to repair damaged skin easier. 

Struggling to decide which active ingredient is right for you? Perhaps start off with a travel size or small size in a product, if available, before purchasing a full size. You can also talk with a dermatologist to find out which ingredient and product is best for you and your specific skin concerns. 

xoxo, 

Margaret Nicole